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Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Slightly Off the Beaten Track (Part 2 of 5)

Have you cruised to all of the usual ports of call? Are you tired of the same old islands? Would you like to do something just a little different? Say a cruise to some place that is slightly off the beaten track. Well, this series of blog postings will give you a few ideas.

Would you consider cruising the Panama Canal? What about the San Blas Islands? I had the privilege of working in Panama for a while and then periodically making management visits to the Isthmus over a number of years. During that time I spent a lot of time at or near the “Ditch”. Back then I could truthfully say that I watched the sun set over the Pacific and had never been west of Chicago. Since my work there included offices at both ends of the canal, my visits included many rides on the Panama Railroad which runs along the canal. My interest in and fascination with the canal has never diminished. The engineering marvels designed into the canal in the very early twentieth century were amazing then and still are. Although it runs between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the water in the canal itself is fresh water fed from rainwater accumulated in lakes and fed by rivers.

Visiting the canal can be accomplished in two manners, from the Atlantic side into and back out of Gatun Lake or traversing the entire canal which is the most interesting and scenic crossing. More details on traversing the canal later.

Let’s take a look at how these voyages are made. Cruises to Panama and San Blas usually start in either Southern Florida or California while the shorter canal transits are usually part of a Western Caribbean cruise and limited to going through the three Gatun locks into Gatun Lake and vice versa. While the ships are at Gatun Lake time permits boarding the Panama Railroad at Colon and crossing the Isthmus into Panama City. This is a very interesting ride and passengers are able to see the towns and points of interest along the way. Guided tours enable passengers to see highlights of the city as well as the former Canal Zone. And, there is, of course, time for shopping.

Trans-canal cruises usually take place as part of ship repositioning when ships are being moved from Europe and the Caribbean to Alaska and the Far East for that season and vice versa.

While transiting or traversing the canal you will see locomotives or “mules” that are designed not so much to move the ships through the canal but, more importantly, to slow them down and to keep them in a straight line through the locks so they don’t bump the sides. The canal is now on its third generation of mules. The first was built in Schenectady, New York in 1914 by General Electric (Pictured at Left) and the latest by Mitsubishi of Japan (Pictured at Right). When traversing the canal your general direction is East/West but, because the canal is at the narrowest part of the Isthmus of Panama and the way it curves, you actually travel North/South.

Panama City is on the southern or Pacific side of the canal as is its former Canal Zone counterpart, Balboa. On the Atlantic or northern side are Colon and its former Canal Zone counterpart, Cristobal. Panama City is very urban and well developed while Colon primitive and focuses mainly on industry and support of canal vessels.

What is probably the most interesting part of a trans-canal cruise is a visit to Panama’s San Blas Islands. If desirous of going there, you must check the ship’s itinerary since only a limited number of ships stop there. This is where you will encounter one of the oldest indigenous populations in the Western Hemisphere. About 37,000 Kuna (Cuna) Indians have inhabited areas of the isthmus and the 365 San Blas Islands for thousands of years. These people have chosen to reject today’s ways and to live as their ancestors did. The San Blas Islands archipelago runs along the coast of the Isthmus. About 36 of the islands are inhabited by Kuna communities with an additional 13 communities located on the mainland coast, for a total of 49 communities. The 924 square mile Kuna Yala or territory is an autonomous area in Panama and divided into three caciques or regions. Although Spanish is spoken, the primary language of the region is Kuna. Vasco Núñez de Balboa, the first Governor of Panama was married to the daughter of a Kuna cacique or chieftain.

Life in a Kuna village is very simple and somewhat primal. They are usually located at the mouth of a river where fresh water is abundant. Homes are huts constructed of wooden sticks or bamboo with thatched roofs constructed in only a few days by members of the community.

Being a matriarchal society, Kuna women are in charge of the families’ monetary resources and are often seen wearing gold earrings, nose rings, bracelets and necklaces. Families consist of many children some of whom attend community schools. The Kuna economy is mainly self supporting and they exist on what they grow, catch or make. Locally grown corn, pineapples, mangos and some root vegetables are eaten as are locally raised animals and an abundance of fish. They also import bananas and rice. Kunas are very good businessmen and their trading is based on the exchange of coconuts, lobsters and giant crabs. Kuna trade partners are Colombian trade boats (for coconuts) and Panama City restaurants (for lobsters & crabs).

One of the primary exports from Kuna Yala are Molas. These are brightly-colored examples of artistic expression designed and handmade by Kuna Indians even today. They consist of a number of different colors of cloth laid one top of another, the maker then cuts down through the various layers of fabric forming primitive yet spectacular designs of natural, mythological or geometric figures. These layers are then sewn with incredibly small and perfect stitches. "Mola" means blouse, and a Kuna woman usually makes a pair with related, but not necessarily identical motifs, which are then attached to the front and back of her blouse. They usually measure 16 x13 Inches each. Different, attractive, decorative, Ingenious, unique, are some of the words to describe this art form.

We have several framed molas in our home and they can be viewed as would a picture. I had an aunt who collected figurines, pictures and other representations of clowns. I had a pair of Clown Molas made just for her. When she passed away we inherited the molas and they are now part of our collection. When in San Blas you must consider buying one or more molas. As with the fine art they represent, they are to be viewed and enjoyed. When viewing a Mola think, what does it do, Is it alive, does it speak to me?

Although diving is not permitted in Kuna Yala, I would suggest you take along your bathing suit, fins and snorkel when visiting San Blas. The undersea flora and fauna are sights to behold.

Should you desire to take a photograph of a Kuna Indian, the usual tip is a dollar.

You need to Visit San Blas!