DANUBE RIVER CRUISE REVIEW

RIVER CRUISE REVIEW – Passau, Germany to Budapest, Hungary
Uniworld River Empress 8/31/2007 – 9/7/2007

I was awestruck as we cruised into Budapest on the Uniworld River Empress early on the Morning of September 7th, 2007. Though it was somewhat overcast, the view that appeared through the very early morning light rivaled the first time we cruised into Venice many years ago – a memory that has stayed vividly etched in our minds. There was the magnificent Parliament Building and we docked in the shadow of the Chain Bridge. Wow, I was completely unprepared to fall in love with this city over the next four days.

Hungary has been noted as one of Europe’s hottest destinations and Budapest is the city that rivals many of the more popular European venues. This is a country steeped in a long and fascinating history. There are many places that we missed visiting (you cannot see everything in 4 days) and need to return to experience – the Jewish Synagogue was one and the House of Terror Museum that recounts their days under Facist and Communist regimes was another.

The culture has been marked by the events of the ages and is becoming more “European” as it became a member of the European Union in 2004. The country still maintains its native currency, the forint, at least until 2010 – another attempt to confuse me with conversions (an easy translation at that time was to knock off the last 2 digits and divide by 2 to get the $ equivalent). We were advised that a good exchange rate is usually available at bank ATMs. There is even a thriving wine producing region – just visit the town of Eger!!! Did you know that what is now Budapest were the cities of Buda and Pest (pronounced “pesht”) separated by the Danube?

Our visit to the enchanting city of Budapest was only the crown jewel, capping off a most memorable week of cruising on the Danube from Passau, Germany to Budapest, Hungary.

Our trip began when we boarded our Lufthansa flight in Newark for the journey to Frankfurt and then a connection to Munich. On arrival at the airport, a representative from Uniworld escorted us to the coach that would take us on a scenic ride to Passau. Approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes later we arrived at the dock and were escorted by the Cruise Manager to the Lounge where a buffet lunch of soup, sandwiches and pastries was waiting.

The ambiance on board could be compared to the casual elegance of a fine boutique hotel. The intimate atmosphere of the small ship (maximum is 134 guests, I think) is a wonderful opportunity to meet and make new friends who are well traveled and share common interests. Most of the passengers are Americans. We met some wonderful interesting people on this trip and feel as though we have made some lifelong friends. Another perk is that the staff is English speaking and we got to meet some fascinating individuals, from many countries, who worked hard to make our cruise a memorable one.

Accommodations:

When our stateroom was ready, we made our way there, escorted by a member of the staff with our luggage in tow. Our Category 1 stateroom was on the Rhine deck and boasted a sitting area comprised of a table and two chairs immediately adjacent to a full-length window. Accommodations were small, just 151 Sq. feet, but very comfortable, with lots of storage space (we were even able to get our empty suitcases under the bed). The beds were put together to form a queen bed that was draped with European-style comforters and duvets, soft 100% Egyptian combed cotton sheets and wool/cashmere bedding throws. There was a flat screen TV and a vanity with mirror. The bathroom was small but adequate with a shower and a very nice assortment of bath amenities.

Dining:

The food was excellent and the daily menu always included selections that were representative of the region that we were visiting, with fresh ingredients brought on board at our ports of call. Tables were dressed with fine linens and dinnerware. We sometimes chose to eat alone, but oftentimes we looked forward to dining with our new friends and acquaintances as the trip progressed.

Breakfast was served buffet style, with a station where eggs and omelets could be freshly prepared. Fruits, breads, cereals, cheese, pate, hot and cold meats and even peanut butter were available. There was also a daily selection that sometimes included pancakes, Belgian Waffles or other such delicacies that were served to us at our table.

Lunch was also served buffet style with a variety of meats, great salads, seasonal vegetables, sandwiches, a carving station and tempting desserts. I especially loved the great homemade soup selection that was always available and served to our table by our waiter or waitress. I believe that we could also have had a lite lunch in the lounge daily.

Dinner was served in one seating with a menu featuring the finest fresh ingredients and regional favorites. A range of decadent desserts such as Crème Brulee, fruit tarts and lots of chocolate delicacies topped off the meal. The wine list was fairly extensive and those of you who know us, know that that is an important part of our dinner, even when we are at home. Starting in 2008, complementary wines will be served with dinner – As our friend, Jen, who lives in Budapest often says – WOO HOO!!

A Station where Coffee, Tea, Iced Tea and water is available was located in a central area 24/7.

Destinations:

Our traveling hotel took us from Passau to Linz, Durnstein and Vienna Austria, as well as Brastislava Slovakia before arriving in Budapest. Every day, we were able to enjoy an informational shore excursion, usually a walking tour, that was included in the cruise fare, or we could decide to take an optional tour. For example, when we visited the city of Linz, we participated in a wonderful – not to be missed - full day optional motorcoach tour to the city of Salzburg, a Baroque city on the banks of the Salzach River. This is the city of Mozart and the Sound of Music. We spent a wonderful day there walking and shopping and savoring an espresso after the formal tour ended. Unfortunately, it was the last really good day of weather until we arrived in Budapest. We were grateful for the umbrellas that were left in our staterooms for such occasions.

The weather was not particularly pleasant when we arrived in Durnstein so decided to stay on board and enjoy the ship. Unfortunately, the weather turned really ugly, cold rainy and windy; when we arrived in Vienna and even though we did take the morning tour, I spent our free time finding a warm sweater. Based on the weather forecast that many of us had received prior to the cruise, the cold was quite a surprise. That evening we did attend a very entertaining concert of Strauss music, arriving by motorcoach in the pouring rain. It was a wonderful experience and we managed to enjoy it all despite the weather.

Our one disappointment – The Danube is not blue.

Entertainment:

One of the really nice things about a River Cruise is that you get to experience life as it is lived in the various towns and cities that you visit. There was a gentleman who entertained us on the piano every evening in the lounge but when we were in a port, where they were able to get local entertainment, we enjoyed a sampling of accomplished musicians that were available from the surrounding area – really nice and great fun.

Every evening before dinner we attended an information session in the Lounge, advising us of the next day’s activities. This was usually preceded by a time for Cocktails and mingling. On the second evening there is a Captain’s Welcome Cocktail hour and special dinner and on the last night on the board, the Captain also hosted a Cocktail Party and Farewell Dinner. This is really the only time that we got sort of dressed up. All other days and nights were “Resort Casual”.

As past Uniworld passengers, we were invited to a Cocktail Reception with the Captain and the Cruise Manager. We also attended lectures, cooking demonstrations and information briefings on many interesting topics.

Other Ship Accommodations:

We had a Laundromat on board, with washers and dryers free of charge. We bought some detergent while we were shopping around in Salzburg and we were able to do our own laundry. Laundry service was available for a fee but dry cleaning service was not. A small shop, a hairdresser, manicurist and a fitness center were available. There was also a library on board and two areas where we could play cards or other board games.

There is also a Sun Deck at the very top of the ship where we could relax or take pictures.

Smoking was only allowed in designated areas.

Disembarkation:

This was a breeze. A day or two before disembarkation, they offered a briefing and posted our specific plan in the area near the purser’s desk. No luggage out at midnight – just ½ hour before your scheduled departure was time enough.

Pre/Post Cruise:

Because of our schedule, we did not take advantage of the pre-cruise in Prague but several people did and were very pleased – we put it on our To-Do list for another time.

We took the 3-night post cruise package and were taken to the Corinthia Grand Hotel Royale in Pest. The hotel was elegant and the location very central for walking, the metro and other public transportation. Even though the price was more than you may have paid if you booked another hotel independently, the advantage is that we had a dedicated Uniworld concierge who met with us at the ship the afternoon before we disembarked, gave us a walking tour of the surrounding area and had many suggestions and tours that were valuable for our stay. She was available for us at a desk in the lobby every day. Breakfast was also included. We did not spend much time with the group at the hotel since we depended on our friend to find interesting placed to visit.

I must admit that we have to thank our friend Jenn, who now lives in Budapest, and played a great part in making this one of the most memorable trips that we have experienced. She was a most welcome guide and being able to meet her friends, share some very special experiences with her and see some of the areas outside of the city were real treats. The Hungarian people we met were warm and friendly though the population is not very diverse.

You have to try some of their local delicacies. Their sausage is delicious and have you ever tried Fruit Soup?

Interesting Things:

Sometimes the boat will dock next to another river ship and “raft” together so that you have to walk through the lobby of one ship to get to the dock. We were always the ship closest to the dock so we never had to walk through. This was true through three River Cruises on Uniworld and Viking.

Since you are usually docked in the center of the city or town, it is very easy to walk off to explore on your own. Just remember not to be late getting back to the boat. The Captain’s schedule is determined by weather conditions, the tides on the river, as well as schedules for the many locks that he has to go though to get to the next docking.

Things you should always remember as you pack for a River Cruise:

● Take as little as possible - Please leave your formal clothes at home.
● Camera
● A warm jacket or fleece
● Comfortable Walking shoes
● Binoculars
● Portable Alarm clock
● When traveling in Europe, take a small amount of Euros for the early portion of the trip. This is helpful if you wish to make a small purchase or for tipping.
● Keep one credit card available – Visa or MasterCard. AMEX is not widely accepted throughout Europe.

Experiencing River Cruises on the Danube and the Seine, earlier in the year, were amongst the biggest joys of our travels last year. We look forward to more of those experiences in future years. Hmmmm, maybe next, a trip on the Nile River.

HEY YOU FOODIES - TRY A SPECIALTY RESTAURANT

Did you know that the major cruise lines all have highly recognized, well known executive chefs? We recently sailed on the Oceania Regatta when their executive chef, Jacques Pepin and his associate and friend, Jean Claude, were onboard. They did cooking demos, gave autographs and fielded questions from those in attendance. We also sailed on Celebrity’s Mercury when their then executive chef, Michel Roux, was on board. During a very recent group cruise on the NCL Dawn we had a private cooking demo presented by two of the ship’s chefs.

You’ve undoubtedly heard that the food is outstanding on board most cruise ships. Would you believe that you can actually kick it up a notch? Want to really experience some outrageous food? Try a specialty restaurant aboard a cruise ship. Here’s what you can expect.

Specialty Restaurants

Most mass market, premium and deluxe cruise lines have specialty restaurants. Each of these restaurants usually focuses on a particular cuisine such as French, Italian, Asian and a Steak House. Some cruise lines may levy a modest surcharge for dining in some of the specialty restaurants while others don’t. Most of these restaurants serve outstanding meals. In addition to being open and serving fantastic bills of fare for dinner, some of the specialty restaurants open for lunch on sea days while others open for wine tastings/pairings, private breakfasts and lunches.

Cruise lines having outstanding specialty restaurants are:

Oceania Cruises - Executive Chef – Jacques Pepin

Polo Grill

In Polo you will enjoy the finest cuts of dry-aged prime beef; chops and fresh seafood. This classic steakhouse features floor-to-ceiling windows affording views of passing seascapes and is warmly decorated with dark woods and elegant furnishings, however, it accommodates only 96 guests so make reservations early in your cruise.

Toscana

This comfortable 90-seat restaurant captures the flair and essence of Tuscany with an intimate yet romantic and whimsical ambiance. The savory gourmet cuisine reflects the very best of Italy in dishes representative of its many regions. As does the Polo Grill, nearly every table is adjacent to floor-to-ceiling windows for soaring views of sea and sky.

There is no extra charge for Specialty Restaurants on Oceania.

Azamara Cruises - Culinary team leader - Jacques van Staden

Reap some very delicious rewards at Azamara’s two specialty venues, Aqualina and Prime C. Every guest gets one dinner in one of the two alternative restaurants as part of the cruise fare (suite guests get two). After that, it's $25 per person for Prime C (tip included) and $20 per person for Aqualina.

Aqualina

The fare of Aqualina is a fusion of Mediterranean flavors Inspired by the coastal cuisines of Italy, Greece, France, Spain, and northern Africa. You can savor dishes drawn from the abundance of the region’s seas, simply prepared yet exceedingly delicious. The ambiance is every bit as tasteful, with accents of silver, cream and blue, all surrounded by breathtaking ocean views.

Prime C
At Prime C, you will find tender cuts of prime beef and fresh seafood that have been transformed into epicurean works of art served in an ambiance of handsome dark woods, warm lighting and soft leather chairs. While dining in Prime C you can relax, sip your favorite wine and enjoy a superior dining experience.

Disney Cruise Line

Palo

We were greatly surprised to be able to delight in delicious Northern Italian cuisine at this elegant, world-class restaurant for adults only, where a romantic candlelit dinner lives on as a treasured memory. All this and Disney too.

Norwegian Cruise Line

NCL features up to five specialty restaurants on each of their ships. We’ve commented on just a few.

Le Bistro

Le Bistro, NCL’s signature restaurant, is offered on all of their ships. Start with the traditional French Onion Soup or Escargots in Garlic Butter. Your entrées can be selected from a delectable selection of beef, seafood, and poultry. After savoring all of that, how about a Chocolate Fondue, Crème Brule or the Grand Mariner Soufflé? We couldn’t resist

Cagney’s Steakhouse

Looking for beef done just right? Cagney’s Rib Eye Steaks, slow roasted Prime Ribs or New York Strips are just what you’re looking for. Non-steak lovers will delight in a selection of chicken and fish dishes. Their Sinful Chocolate Obsession for desert is to die for.

Teppanyaki

This will be a meal to remember. You’ll be seated at a Teppanyaki table for 10 surrounding a large cooking surface. The word "teppanyaki" is derived from teppan, which means iron plate, and yaki, which means grilled. Whether you’re seated with new faces or familiar faces is up to you. When the chef arrives, the fun begins. Your meal will be prepared right before your eyes. Be sure to bring your appetite. This is a total dining experience and lots of fun!

These three NCL restaurants require a surcharge and reservations are highly recommended.

Holland America Line - Master Chef Rudi Sodamin

The Pinnacle Grill

These beautifully appointed alternative-dining venues on all Holland America Line ships are ideal for a romantic dinner for two or an elegant dining spot for a group celebration. Featuring Pacific Northwest specialties including selected cuts of Sterling Silver beef and superb seafood items, as well as carefully selected wines from renowned Pacific Northwest vineyards, expect a delicious experience. Entrees may include Pan-Seared Rosemary Chicken with Cranberry Chutney, Grilled Sea Scallops with Marjoram Pomodoro Coulis, served on curried Hollandaise spinach with fried capers, or Lamb Rack Chops with Drizzled Mint Sauce. Top a selection of these with Warm Grand Marnier Chocolate Volcano Cake, Lemon Berry Angel Shortcake, and Not-so-Classic Baked Alaska. Open for dinner only by reservation, guests pay a modest surcharge of $30 per person for dinner and for lunch.

Princess Cruise Line - Master Corporate Chef Alfredo Marzi

Sabatini's

Princess offers several Specialty Dining options for you to choose from on every ship. We have chosen one upon which to comment. Sabatini's serves an authentic Italian dining experience in a remarkable eight-course meal. The stellar menu features both local seafood specialties and other regional favorites. Cover charge applies.

In Your Own Sweet Way

Here’s the ultimate in Specialty Dining. On Princess you can order up a very special dinner consisting of lobster and champagne and all the fixings served right there on your stateroom balcony. Now that is truly SPECIAL!

Interested in Food and Wine? Look for future Blogs on Culinary Cruises, Wine Cruising and River Cruising.